Friday, July 22, 2011

The Final Stretch

I have less than four months to go before I'll be back home in America.
I'm not sure how to feel about that. On one hand, I'm RIDICULOUSLY excited to go home. By the time I land on American soil I will have been gone for more than two years. I'm so excited to see my friends and family; I can't even explain how much I'm looking forward to going home. And I'm so, so, SO excited to see my dog! Two years is a very long time to be away from your dog. That's about 14 people years! I doubt he'll even remember me. Gah! I can't wait to see my puppy!
Although I'm very much looking forward to going home, I still feel like I need to really enjoy and digest my last few months here. I feel like I might be rushing through to get everything organized for re-entering the U.S. that I won't be able to look around and enjoy this place. I feel like, these days, I'm moving too fast and rushing toward the finish. I know I'm going to really regret that when I get home. I just want to stop and take a look around and really be here; taste, touch, feel, smell all that I can.
The truth is, it's so easy to get upset about so many things in this country and to get frustrated when things don't go the way I think they should, but I'm going to miss so many things about this country and this culture. I've learned so much here and I just hope I can remember all the wonderful experiences I had here. It's definitely not been all great, the She Devil experience was particularly grand, but I can definitely say without a doubt that I'm so glad I made the choice to do this.
I'm already getting nervous about the question I know I will get from everyone when I get home, "So, how was Korea?" How can I possibly answer that question after having spent two years of my life in a completely foreign country? There's so much to tell and I won't even know where to start. I feel like this experience won't fully sink in for me until years down the road. This experience has been so massive and literally other-worldly that I can't possibly encapsulate it in one conversation or even a string of conversations. I'm honestly having mini-panic attacks just thinking about going home and trying to explain this. What am I going to say?  "Ummm, great. Crazy. Wonderful. Beautiful. Insane." I don't know how to explain it fairly and thoroughly.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Growing Pains

South Korea is a very interesting place with very interesting people.
It was essentially a third-world country prior to the Korean War. An armistice was signed over 50 years ago, which ended the war but doesn't mean peace between North and South Korea. The Korean War effectively bombed Korea back into the Stone Age and both countries have been experiencing significant growing pains since.
North Korea is still destitute, with its' people chronically poor and starving, but South Korea has become one of the world's powers. South Korea is currently in the top 20 world economies. They are far ahead in technology and it seems pretty much everyone owns at least one smart phone and countless other electronic devices.
Military service is mandatory for Korean men due to the threat just north of the lower half of the Korean peninsula and, my students say, because the Korean people never again want to be put in the position they were in nearly 60 years ago when they were attacked by the North Koreans, not to mention the Japanese attacks. The Korean people are a very proud people and their culture and heritage is everything to them.
In the same vein, education is of the utmost importance to the South Korean people. With knowledge (or at least high scores in standardized tests) there is power. There is a wide and obvious clash between the older generations and the modern Korean.
Taking a stroll down the street on any given day, I can see Halmoni (grandmother) and Harabujee (grandfather) squatting by their crops of the day, making whatever money they can. Meanwhile, a mucky-muck suit speedwalks by while speaking rapid-fire into his cellphone and simultaneously consulting his smartphone for the latest e-mails. Most Koreans have multiple cell phones.
Success, money, power, appearance and, interestingly enough, traditional values are crucial. It's a difficult world to fit in as a modern Korean. There is constant pressure to succeed while still trying to follow the Confucian ideals that Korea was founded on. I'm so glad I get a hall pass when it comes to living in this world.
Unfortunately with all this constant pressure comes points of breaking down. I'm constantly navigating through the H-A-M-M-E-R-E-D men stumbling along the streets and sidewalks starting at 7 p.m. every night. It's a given to go out with your boss and co-workers every night after work and drink to near black-out stage (or as Koreans call it "cutting the film"). I encounter it daily. I'm convinced Koreans just don't have livers. There's no way a person can consume that amount of alcohol every single night and live. It's amazing and South Korea has one of the highest life expectancy rates in the world. I see men who are highly respected CEOs of companies or majors (or higher ranking) in the Air Force by day who turn into belligerent drunks by night, fighting with peers and subordinates.
There was a recent report in one of the English-language newspapers in Korea stating a high-level companyman was cited for entertaining his clients with trips to hostess rooms, which is a polite way of saying the man took his clients out for nights on the town with prostitutes using company funds. Alcoholism and adultery are a way for over-worked and over-stressed men to cope. However, women in the workforce aren't allowed to act in such a manner. They have to find their own way through the stress and pressure for perfection.
Another effect of the pressure and growing pains within the Korean society is suicide. South Korea has one of the highest suicide rates in the world. Students, teachers, entertainers, parents and politicians killing themselves is a usual, daily occurrence here. It's frightening how common suicide is in Korea. A politician committed suicide because his brother allegedly brought shame on the family. Suicide is a way to rectify wrongs. The politician wanted to clear his family's name and right the supposed wrong. Suicide is, obviously, also a way to escape a life of too much pressure and difficulties.
Counseling is seen as a taboo here and, although Korea recognizes suicide as a growing and serious problem, there doesn't seem to be any way for them to combat it at the present time. All these problems are growing and I fear for the future of Korea. This is a beautiful country, with beautiful people and I hope there is a healthy way to confront problems as they arise.

Friday, July 8, 2011

Couple Attire

Koreans have an interesting habit of wanting the world to know they're in a relationship.
There is a strange phenomenon in Korea known as "couple shirts". They can strike at any time in the strangest of circumstances and locations.
Couple shirts are tank tops, T-shirts or sweatshirts that match exactly and the men and women in coupledom where these tops in public to let the world know they are together forever. Awww, how cute.
Why in the world this occurs and the rest of us have to be assaulted with it is completely beyond me, but many things in this lovely country baffle me.

Couple shirts are all the rage in Korea. You guys look stupid.
But at least everyone knows you're a couple and that seems
to be very important.  

There's also couple's underwear. Once again, the point of this completely baffles me. It's advertised on mannequins in many a storefront and I can't put my finger on the point of couple's underwear. It's not like it's used like the couple's shirts, which sole purpose is so that other people know that you and the other person are an item. Koreans tend to be fairly modest, so the likelihood of them walking the streets in their couple's underwear is pretty slim.
By the time you get down to your skivvies nobody cares what they look like on, they just want to see them on the floor, so I don't really get the point in these particular items of clothing. The really strange part of both these fashions seems not to embarrass either party. Baffling.
At least it entertains the foreigners in Korea and we frequently buy it as a gag gift or for our friends back home.
Ahhh, Korea how I love you so.